![]() Many, many were disasters waiting to happen while firing due to lack of surface hardening, poor welds, misaligned parts, etc. Dishonest welders and fast buck artists literally bought the torched/cut receivers, aligned them poorly and rewelded and reparkerized them to look good. When M1 Garands became scarce due to government demil destruction by cutting receivers with a torch or with a cutting machine, the demilled parts were sold on the scrap metal market. ![]() Reputable vendors sell only authentic original government receivers and a few actually have new receivers manufactured to original specification using original forged receivers that are then machined to the proper specs so all parts function properly. Get a new or MPI (magnetic particle inspected) or untrasound checked and certified good, within specs receiver w/o cracks or rewelds and rebuild the M1 with parts from a known reliable, honest vendor. This is not a motor bike/vehicle frame post collision repair. There is a lot more to repairing a receiver to original specifications and quality than simply welding it. Simply finding someone recommended to you as a good TIG welder is not enough. It was a complicated, techinical procedure that until finally worked out, improper heat treating was responsible for hundreds of rejects from govenment contracted manufacturers. The steel used in the manufacturing of the M1 was specifically surface hardened to a very specific Rockwell hardness standard at a very specific surface depth. WWII or post war contract receiver NO it is not wise to try to repair. I am open to about anything at this point. I may sell it or trade it to get something I can use or may want. I am new to the garand rifle really and know that they are a little tricky to work on. I guess I am just seeing if anyone has any information for me that I may not have already read. It just hurts my heart to have an extra that is just a hanger. The thing is I have another awesome garand that is fully functioning and in good operating condition. I am guessing I can hang her up and look at her or I can order a 400.00 receiver and shoot her again. So after weighing his options he brought it to me and said he did not want to mess with it and to do what I wish with it. I instructed him that this would be a hard sale and that it basically renders this Ole beaut all but inoperable. Sling: GI, MRT marked, date is hard to read, probably 1950s.I have a m1 garand that was gifted to me due to the fact that the Ole battle rifle has a hairline Crack on each side of the receiver heel on each side of the Springfield roll mark and serial number. No cracks, has dings from handling, none severe, very nice appearance.īuttplate: round plunger type, VG condition with little finish wear Circled "P" on pistol grip, 1/2 stars and eagle (DAS) on left side, both markings very sharp. Stock: walnut, clearly HRA from thickness at pistol grip and the "horseshoe". Gas cylinder lock screw: cross slot poppet valve type, marked "HRA" Gas cylinder lock: postwar high hump type, unmarked Gas cylinder: wide sight platform, flat on top of rear ring. Hammer spring plunger: postwar type, no wings Rear sight aperture: SA/HRA type, double track Rear sight base: late SA/HRA type, unmarked Op rod: flat side, marked "6535382 HRA", excellent condition, no pitting.īullet guide: stamped with notch, unmarkedįollower rod: long fork, riveted, unmarked Lower band: two piece flat top with roll pinīarrel Gauge Measurements: Muzzle Wear: 1, Throat Erosion: 3 External finish is in excellent condition, no pitting. Excellent condition, absolutely no pitting, no scratches or gouges, a little finish wear at corners.īarrel: marked "HRA 6353448 11-55 RS66" in op rod slot, with "P" and punch mark, "M", and small stars and eagle.
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